They say that South Africa is the
land of contrast and a trip to Coffee Bay gave us another glimpse of the rich
diversity that blankets this nation. A landscape of rolling hills, dotted with
small circular straw roofed huts, Coffee Bay is isolated from the outside world
and reminds me of something which would feature in the National Geographic.
There is no denying the clear poverty
surrounding this community. Even the most basic dirt roads and running water
have only reached the area in the past few years. Despite this, tourism has
brought considerable opportunities for the locals with the woman (mamas)
selling homemade beaded jewellery and the men seemingly selling drugs outside
every backpackers!! I have been impressed and somewhat taken back by the efforts
of children here to make money for their families. When going to see the ‘hole
in the wall’, an unusual feature of coastal erosion, two young boys gave us a
guided tour of the area – they were on school holidays and were trying to earn
some money. Another young 10 year old boy sold me a wallet made from a juice
carton – possibly one of the coolest things I have bought here – a future
Richard Branson I reckon!
A guided tour of around the village
allowed us to learn about traditional medicines and the locals beliefs about
their ancestors. We visited the sacred pools where locals would pour homemade
beer as an offering to their ancestors. After we had practiced some traditional
mud face painting we visited a family home for a homemade traditional meal prepared
by the mamas. While inside, women served the food. Men and women sat at
different sides of the room, with the man of the house sitting nearest the
door. Needless to say, Lynsey and Shannon were less than impressed to have to
hand Ryan and I our food with the phrase ‘I hope you choke on it’ being used! I
couldn’t believe it when we learned that a man had to buy his wife. This is
done by paying the lady’s parents the value of 7 cows, along with the lady’s
consent. Furthermore a man can have as many wives as he pleases provided he is
able to provide for them all.
The Xhosa culture is very different
to the culture of Northern Ireland. Nevertheless, I felt very welcome here and
the locals were very friendly. Locals recognise that tourism is crucial to
their community which is economically isolated and so the feeling towards
travellers is very positive. I think experiencing different cultures and
comparing them to our own is important in developing understanding,
appreciation and respect for difference. Our culture helps shape who we are,
how others see us and how we interact with others. Experiencing new and
contrasting cultures helps challenge how we develop as individuals. I have
enjoyed my time in Coffee Bay very much, it has been awesome!
Glenn
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